Biking the C & O Canal

We began our journey at Union Station in Washington, D.C., boarding an Amtrak train to Cumberland. Be sure to reserve a bike spot in advance—Amtrak enforces a tire width limit of two inches. Unfortunately, our train was delayed by three hours, so we didn’t arrive in Cumberland until 11:00 a.m., setting us back from our original schedule. 

We kicked off our day around 7:30 a.m. with breakfast at Café Mark—a cozy spot near the start of the trail that opens early and serves great coffee. The rain had finally stopped, though everything remained damp. Before heading out, we took the customary starting-line photos and gave the donkey’s tail a good-luck rub before leaving Cumberland.

The trail was wide, smooth, and composed of crushed stone, making for an easy and enjoyable ride. We stopped for lunch at School House Kitchen in Old Town, just a short detour off the trail. After a leisurely meal, we wrapped up the day’s ride in Paw Paw around 2:00 p.m. Reaching Paw Paw required a brief ride off the trail, including a crossing over the Potomac River on a highway bridge.

That night, we stayed at Canal Cabins in a unique accommodation called “The Bus”, a converted transit bus outfitted with everything needed for a comfortable overnight stay. The property included a bike wash station, laundry room, and shared bathrooms with hot showers. Dining options in town were limited, but we managed to grab a surprisingly decent dinner at the Liberty gas station.

We started early with a quick stop at the Liberty convenience store for a light breakfast—just a few bananas to get us going. Back on the trail, we hit a major highlight within the first mile: the Paw Paw Tunnel, a unique and historic feature of the C&O Canal Towpath. After snapping a few photos, we walked our bikes through the tunnel, as recommended. The path inside is narrow, uneven, muddy, and very dark, so be sure to bring a bike light or headlamp.

Once through the tunnel, we rode along a boardwalk that runs for several hundred yards beside the canal. From there, the trail quickly lived up to the C&O’s reputation: muddy. It’s hard to overstate just how messy it gets—expect to get dirty and plan accordingly. We wore water shoes during the ride and brought along a dry pair to change into afterward. At various campsites, we used hand pumps to rinse off our bikes and gear.

In addition to the mud, we had to navigate around several downed trees, occasionally lifting our bikes over the obstacles. Closer to the end of the ride, we were pleasantly detoured onto the Western Maryland Rail Trail, a welcome break from the slippery conditions. We eventually rejoined the C&O for the final stretch into Hancock, Maryland.

We stopped at C&O Bicycle for some snack bars and picked up a cool sticker as a souvenir. Our overnight stay was at the 1828 Trail Inn Bed & Breakfast—a comfortable place to clean up both ourselves and our bikes. For dinner, we walked to the nearby Triangle Restaurant and enjoyed a well-earned meal.

Our third day started strong with a big, hearty breakfast prepared by Joe, the owner of the 1828 Trail Inn. With about 50 miles ahead of us, the fuel was much appreciated. Curious about the trail conditions, we asked Joe and another guest for advice. They recommended taking the Western Maryland Rail Trail for the first 10 miles, as it runs parallel to the C&O and offers a much smoother ride. We gladly followed their suggestion and cruised through that stretch with ease before reconnecting with the C&O Towpath.

Fortunately, the remainder of the trail was in much better shape than the day before. Just before stopping for lunch in Williamsport, we crossed the Conococheague Aqueduct—another interesting and scenic feature along the route.

We grabbed a casual lunch at Ruth’s Market before continuing onward, eventually stopping at the Midpoint Mile Marker (92.25)—a satisfying milestone on the journey.

We were thrilled to finally reach the turnoff for Shepherdstown, though the climb into town involved a series of winding switchbacks leading up to the highway that crosses the Potomac River. Once in town, we checked into the Thomas Shepherd Inn a very comfortable B&B located within walking distance of several excellent restaurants. We chose The Press Room for dinner and enjoyed a fabulous meal a perfect way to end a long day in the saddle.

After a nice breakfast at the Thomas Shepherd Inn, we began Day 4 of our ride—a shorter, more relaxed segment covering about 20 miles. Our plan included a stop in Harpers Ferry for some sightseeing and a break from the trail.

At Harpers Ferry, we locked up our bikes at a rack and walked across the Potomac River via a railroad bridge with a pedestrian walkway. This section of the trail also intersects with the Appalachian Trail. Harpers Ferry, located at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers, is part of a National Historical Park known for its rich Civil War-era history. Most notably, John Brown’s 1859 raid on the federal armory in an attempt to incite a slave uprising.

After exploring the town, we continued on to Brunswick, Maryland, where we spent the night in a comfortable apartment. We treated ourselves to a late-afternoon snack and dinner at the Potomac Street Grill, a spot we’d definitely recommend. We wrapped up the day at the train viewing platform, relaxing as the passing trains rolled through, a fitting end to a slower-paced, enjoyable day.

We were ready to ride after a light breakfast and hit the trail around 7:30 AM. The forecast predicted a hot day, with temperatures reaching 90°F. Trail conditions were manageable but rough in places, with numerous bumps and potholes filled with water. Our pace was slower than on the previous four days.

We stopped at White's Ferry Grill for a cold drink and grabbed sandwiches to go. Later, we paused for lunch at Riley’s Lock (Lock 24), enjoying the sandwiches we picked up earlier. We also stopped at Great Falls to see if any kayakers were navigating the rapids.

Despite having to cross numerous downed trees, we pushed on and eventually arrived in Georgetown. By chance, we spotted a sign for Mile Marker 0—the other end of the trail. We had completed our ride!

Summary

We’re glad we broke the trip into manageable segments. By the end, both of us were exhausted our legs and seats definitely felt it. I don’t think I’ll do this ride again, but I might consider trying the GAP Trail.